This article is a translation of the original French article “Skin Flooding – Hydrater sa peau intensément, mais intelligemment” and is intended for the French market. Treatments, availability and prices may differ at our London clinic.
Passive hydration: understanding the dynamics of Skin Flooding
1. Does the skin have an absorption limit?
Water applied to the surface is not absorbed directly into the dermis, but remains mainly in the epidermis, where it can either:
- Evaporate, if the skin barrier is impaired or if no protective film holds it in.
- Be captured temporarily by the cells of the epidermis, but with no lasting effect without lipids to lock it in.
Effective hydration therefore does not rely solely on supplying water, but on the skin's ability to retain and redistribute it.
2. Why can too much water become counterproductive?
Applying several layers of water-based skincare without strengthening the barrier function can paradoxically lead to increased water loss. This phenomenon, known as excessive transepidermal dehydration, can have several consequences:
- A weakened skin barrier, unable to retain water in the long term.
- Hypersensitivity to external aggressors (pollution, UV, irritants).
- Increased reactivity, particularly in sensitive or atopic skin.
The balance between hydration and maintaining the skin barrier is therefore crucial to avoid a rebound effect.
Skin Flooding: a method suited to all skin types?
1. Dry and dehydrated skin: a real benefit, under certain conditions
Skin lacking water can benefit from Skin Flooding, provided that:
- Hydration is gradual and sealed in with an emollient phase (lipids).
- The skin is not weakened by overly exfoliating or irritating products, which could disrupt its balance.
The essential actives:
- Hyaluronic acid: attracts water and holds it at the surface.
- Beta-glucan and panthenol: soothe and strengthen the barrier function.
- Ceramides and phytosqualane: restore the lipid barrier to prevent water from evaporating.
2. Oily and combination skin: excess water can upset the balance
Contrary to popular belief, oily skin often lacks water and has an excess of sebum. While Skin Flooding can improve surface hydration, it can also:
- Overstimulate the sebaceous glands, causing a rebound effect.
- Create a feeling of heaviness, if overly rich textures are used alongside it.
Solution: favour lightweight formulations with non-occlusive humectants (hyaluronic acid, niacinamide) and avoid excessive layers that would saturate the skin.
3. Sensitive skin: beware of the sensitising effect
Sensitive skin has a more permeable skin barrier, which means that:
- Too many water-based products can encourage inflammation and redness.
- Some hydrating actives in large quantities can disrupt the skin's natural balance.
The ideal approach:
- Include soothing actives (centella asiatica, panthenol, niacinamide).
- Limit product layering and favour simple yet effective skincare.
Optimising Skin Flooding for effective hydration
1. The right protocol: how to apply it without overdoing it
- On slightly damp skin, apply a hydrating toner.
- Add a hyaluronic acid serum, patting lightly to aid absorption.
- Then apply a moisturiser suited to your skin type to maintain hydration.
- Finish with a light lipid layer (phytosqualane, non-comedogenic oil) if needed.
2. Avoiding common mistakes
- More layers do not mean more hydration: skin saturated with water but lacking lipids cannot retain moisture effectively.
- Do not forget sun protection, as well-hydrated skin is more vulnerable to UV and pollution.
- Avoid irritating actives in a Skin Flooding routine (retinol, excessive exfoliating acids.
Skin Flooding and aesthetic medicine: a complement to expert treatments?
1. Improving skincare penetration after an in-clinic treatment
Skin Flooding can maximise the results of professional treatments such as:
- Hydrafacial: which deeply cleanses and hydrates, optimising the absorption of actives.
- Hyaluronic acid Skinboosters: which require optimal hydration maintenance to prolong their effects.
- Microneedling: where applying post-treatment serums supports cell regeneration
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2. Can this technique hydrate the skin in depth?
Hydration through Skin Flooding remains superficial. To truly plump the skin, techniques that work in the dermis are needed, such as:
- Injected Skinboosters (lasting hydration and skin restructuring).
- Radiofrequency (collagen stimulation for better water retention).
Conclusion: Skin Flooding, between benefits and limits
Skin Flooding is an approach that can optimise skin hydration, but it does not suit every skin type and must be adapted to avoid counterproductive effects.
- Hydration should not be passive: it must go hand in hand with an intact lipid barrier and appropriate sun protection.
- Every skin reacts differently: dry and dehydrated skin can benefit, but oily and sensitive skin should adopt it with caution.
- External hydration is not always enough: aesthetic medicine treatments remain essential for strengthening the skin's structure in depth.
At Innerskin, we offer bespoke protocols to optimise hydration and improve skin quality in the long term.
Would you like to know whether Skin Flooding is right for your skin? Book an appointment for an in-depth skin diagnosis and discover a bespoke approach to intelligent, lasting hydration.
Would you like to know whether skin flooding is right for your skin? Book an appointment for an in-depth skin diagnosis and discover a bespoke approach to intelligent, effective hydration.
